Hard gel is a game-changer for building strong, sculpted nails — but it’s also a medium that demands precision. Whether you’re a seasoned tech looking to refine your technique or a beginner keen to get it right from day one, mastering the finer details can make all the difference to your application, structure, and finish.
We spoke to TWENTY’s Head of Education, Lauren Jones, who shared her top five professional tips for working with SCULPT & BOOST™ Hard Gel.
1. Rubber Base is Non-Negotiable
Before you even open your hard gel, lay the groundwork. Always apply a layer of Rubber Base first.
Why?
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Flexibility – Rubber Base sits beneath the rigid hard gel, acting as a shock absorber to prevent cracking.
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Protection – It provides a “safety net” for future infills and removals, helping protect the natural nail plate.
Lauren’s tip: Float a small bead of Rubber Base down the centre of the nail, then use a liner brush to gently stretch it side-to-side. This creates a smooth, even base without excess bulk.
2. Decant for Better Control
One of the most common mistakes techs make is overloading the brush directly from the jar.
Instead, decant a small amount of SCULPT & BOOST™ onto a palette or foil. Then, use a round gel brush to pick up your working bead.
Benefits:
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Prevents over-application
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Ensures a thin, balanced overlay
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Improves curing efficiency
This method helps you work cleaner and more precisely, especially for short to medium extensions.
3. Your Liner Brush is Your Secret Weapon
Once your initial bead is applied, swap to a liner brush.
This tool allows you to:
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Nudge product into tricky areas like sidewalls and free edges
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Perfect your apex without adding excess bulk
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Avoid flooding cuticles
Think of your liner brush as the detailing tool that takes your work from good to flawless.
4. Float Product Down the Centre
When applying your bead, resist the urge to sweep side-to-side. This can lead to uneven distribution and messy edges.
Instead, float the product from the centre down the length of the nail. This encourages:
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A natural, balanced apex
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Minimal clean-up
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Consistent structure across every nail
5. Build and Cure Individually
Yes, it’s slower — but the results speak for themselves. Apply and cure one nail at a time.
This approach:
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Prevents the product from running into cuticles or sidewalls
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Helps maintain perfect structure on every nail
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Reduces the need for heavy refining after curing
When you’re sculpting for precision, patience is part of the process
Take Your Skills Further
Ready to perfect your hard gel application from prep to finish? Our ABT-accredited SCULPT & BOOST™ Hard Gel Course is designed to teach you every step in detail — directly from Lauren Jones herself.