Allergies are a big talking point in the nail industry right now. While many brands and educators focus on prevention (which is vital in our unregulated sector), it’s equally important to know:
What should you expect from your brand if a client reacts to their products?
The truth is, reactions can happen — even with products marketed as “hypoallergenic”. There are many potential causes:
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Application to damaged nails
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Undercuring due to lamp mismatch or incorrect timings
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Contact with the skin during application
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Hormonal changes
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Certain medications
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Sensitivity to specific ingredients, such as acrylates found in gel polishes
Mild vs. Severe Reactions – What’s the Difference?
Under UK Cosmetic Regulations 1223/2009, brands must report reactions to the OPSS (Office for Product Safety and Standards) if:
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A severe allergic reaction occurs after exposure to their products.
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A mild reaction occurs multiple times across different users.
Mild reactions may include:
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Localised redness or itching around the nail
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Minor swelling
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Temporary irritation
Severe reactions may include:
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Blistering
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Widespread swelling
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Intense pain or burning sensation
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Detachment of the nail plate (onycholysis)
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Any reaction that requires medical intervention
How a Responsible Brand Should Respond
If a client experiences a reaction, your brand should:
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Log the reaction – including the exact products, batch numbers, and application date.
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Ask the right questions, such as:
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Which products were used?
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Was the client on any medication?
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Did the client have any existing nail or skin damage?
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Have they reacted before?
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Advise immediate medical attention if symptoms are severe.
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Provide clear guidance on how to proceed (which often includes stopping gel services until tested).
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Follow up – while ongoing support isn’t mandated in cosmetic regulations, a brand that cares will check in with the nail tech or client afterwards.
Why Allergy Testing is Essential Before Returning to Gel
If a client wishes to continue with gel manicures after a reaction, the only safe route is to undergo allergy patch testing with a dermatologist. This identifies exactly which acrylates (if any) they are allergic to. Armed with this information, the nail tech can choose safe alternatives or advise against gel entirely.
The Importance of Detailed Client Records
A nail tech’s consultation form isn’t just paperwork – it’s a vital safety measure.
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Keep records of every product used at each appointment.
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Ask new clients if they’ve had previous reactions to gels or if they’ve done at-home manicures.
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Enquire about medications or health conditions – autoimmune issues can make clients more prone to reactions.
This isn’t about scaring clients – it’s about transparency. In many areas of beauty, consultations are standard. We believe it’s time the nail industry followed suit.
Our Transparency at TWENTY™
Since launching in January 2023, our reaction rate has been 0.015% – well below the current UK industry average of around 2% (source: OPSS annual safety data). While rare, reactions do happen, and when they do, we act quickly, thoroughly, and with your best interests at heart.
A trusted brand isn’t just about pretty colours – it’s about standing beside you when things don’t go to plan. At TWENTY™, we’re committed to giving nail professionals the knowledge, tools, and support they need to deliver safe, beautiful results for every client.
If you ever need advice about a possible reaction, you can email us at hello@twentypro.co.uk – we’re here to help.